Open Tour Buses

Though my initial plan is to make my way south of the country by train, I am drawn to the open tour bus. It cost an average of US$25 for an open bus ticket, which allows me to hop on and hop off at all major stops between Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh. A hard sleeper with multiple stops on the other hand will cost me more than US$120.

However, a mistake I have made as other traveller is to purchase the full open tickets from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh, instead of purchasing one destination at a time. If the bus is fully booked – which can happen – I can’t seek alternative with other bus companies or mode of transport without sacrificing what I have paid for. Essentially, I have sacrificed my independence to save a couple of bucks.

Travelling on the open tour bus is not so much a tourist affair as the guidebook has suggested. With the increasing affluent Vietnamese, I found myself sharing seats with them on my way from Hanoi to Hue. Apparently, they are taking short break to their hometown in Central Vietnam from their job in Hanoi. They also seem to carry with them large number of suitcases, cartons and bags which they packed the back of the bus. Bags are pack to on the last row and spilling on to the aisle.

I have also learnt not to take the last few rows of the bus. I have took a 12 hours bus journey from Hanoi to Hue on a seat which I can tilt back due the bags packed in the seat behind me…

My Son : Evidence of Indian Culture in Vietnam

Day 11: 27 Dec 2005

The ruins of My Son are one of Vietnam's most ancient monuments. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was once the major religious centre of the ancient Champa Kingdom. My hotel managed to arrange a half day tour to My Son at US$4. Though a half day tour, the bus journey actually took 2hrs each way. The tour allow for a 2hrs at the ruins, which is enough for most tourist.

The temples rising out of the jungle reveal the influence Hinduism on the culture of the ancient Cham people. Relic such as Hindu linga and yoni are found at the site. Hindu image and ornaments are also intricately carved on the wall and pillars. The site are organized into an uninspired group name of A to H. Regrettably, there is little written description of the sights.

The ruins of My Son could be in a better condition. Most of the site are heavily damaged during the war. The best of the sculptures have also been moved to the Cham Museum in Danang. Nevertheless, My Son is well worth a visit. Apart from its historical importance it is located in a lovely settling.

Gastronomic Delight in Hoi An

Hoi An has good quantity and quality food. Every turn, nook and canny in the city yields a new restaurants or cafés.

I joined Jason and Kat for Christmas lunch shortly after we arrived in Hoi An from Hue. We have chosen a restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet in Tan Phu near the market. I ordered cao lau and fried wanton, which I am immensely satisfied. White rose, fried wanton and cao lau are Hoi An specialties. White rose is actually steam dumpling with shrimp. Fried wonton, unlike our local version, is wrapped with mixture of mince shrimp and crab meat. The real treat, in my opinion, is cao lau, which is served in almost every Hoi An restaurants. It's a thick and flat rice noodle, much like our hand-made noodles, with slices of pork, croutons, sprouts, greens and crispy rice paper in a light soup, which are enhanced with mint, anise, small chilis. It is both filing and flavourful.

For dinner, I checked out this nondescript restaurant along Phan Dinh Phung. The place is operated by an Australian lady. According to the sign board, she also served vegemite to homesick Aussie. A young Dutch joined me at the table because he doesn't want to dine alone. Neither do I.

The young Dutch is Ramco. He was an IT analyst in Amsterdam and recently quitted his job to travel the world. He has done China and was doing Southeast Asia before heading to Australia/New Zealand. We chatted through dinner, and thereafter headed to “Treat” in Tran Phu St. Treat is a well run bar with 2 pool tables. It seems to be very popular and packed with travelers.

Besides traditional Vietnamese fares, Hoi An also offers a stunning variety of foreign cuisines to satisfy the whim of every visitors. For lunch on the second day, I ordered burger in Hoi An Patisserie. The burger was done to perfection, with thick juicy beef patty, crisp fresh veggie, soft cheese sandwiched in between a nicely toasted sesame bud. Yummy.. This recommended café by Let's Go guide has a wide selection of pastry and gourmet sandwiches. I took my food and coffee on the terrace of the café overlooking Thu Bon River. It is a nice place to spend a lazy afternoon and draft a few posts.

By evening on the 2nd day in Hoi An, I finished my travel literature which I brought for the trip: Sarah Macdonald's “Holy Cow”. The book accounted her travel and adventure in India, and I had an urged to try Indian food. I was not disappointed for Hoi An boosted a popular India place “Omar's Restaurant” (14 Phan Dinh Phung). The curry was excellent. As the place was packed I was make to share the table with a young French student in her early 20s. Currently on her short Christmas break, she was interning in the Hanoi UN Office. She love India and have since visited 4 times. Apparently, she loves Indian food.

I have my lunch on the last day in Hoi An in Café Ly (22 Nguyen Hue), another recommended café by Let's Go guide. They served excellent local food and I tried their signature grilled pork in rice paper wrap. It was delicious.

By all account, it was not surprise why many travellers stayed longer in Hoi An. It has a nice World Heritage town, unhurried pace of life, and excellent food.

Tomb Raider in Hue

Day 8: 24 Dec 2005

The bus journey from Hanoi to Hue is a good 14hrs. Jason and Kat, the Kiwi couple who are in my tour in Sapa, are also in the same bus. They intended to spend a day in Ninh Binh before heading to Hoi An. I reckon I will meet up with them for Christmas in Hoi An. People are either heading north or south in Vietnam, and bound to meet up in major tourist towns.

I alighted from the bus with a headache and a slight fever that persist throughout the day in Hue. The hotel touts quickly besiege us as we alight from the bus in the middle of the town. I follow a one of them to a hotel close to the bus station as I intended to stay only a night in Hue. I checked into Phu An Hotel (42 Nguyen Tri Phuong St) at US$10 a night.

With the limited time in Hue, I also arranged a one day tour of the Citadel, the Imperial City and the Royal Tombs from the hotel. Though the tour included lunch and trip back by boat along the Perfume River, it never included the admission to all the attractions. At an average of 55,000D for each attraction, it is quite pricey. My group consisted mainly of American tourists. Interestingly, there is an Vietnamese-American family, whose mum is descended from one of the concubine of the Nguyen emperors. Hmm.. traveling with the royal?

TOMB OF MINH MANG
The guidebooks have stated that the Minh Mang’s tomb is possibly the finest of all the imperial tombs, and it might be true. In term of architectural poise and balance, and richness of decoration, it is pleasant and pleasing visually. In addition, it is sited among peaceful ponds, large courtyards and stone bridges over the ponds. The tomb proper is located on the mound surrounded by a circular wall and locked bronze door which prevent access.

TOMB OF KHAI DINH
At first glance, the Khai Dinh’s tomb seems a bit lack of greens as compared to Minh Mang’s. The tomb is the last of the imperial tomb to be built, it show a distinctly European architectural influence. The interior is richly decorated with ornate and colourful murals, French floor tiles and fragment of Chinese porcelain and Japanese glass. The alter house the statue of the emperor and his tomb is located 9m below the statue.

TOMB OF TU DUC
Though part of the tour, the group unanimously agreed to skip this site. Seem that nobody wanted to pay another 55,000D to visit another tomb.

THE IMPERIAL CITY

The Imperial City is modeled after the much larger Forbidden Palace in Beijing. It was huge compound within the Citadel and we spend more than 2 hours within the city wall. Beyond the Royal Gate is the Palace of Supreme Harmony, which house the emperor’s throne. From here, the emperor will receive ministers, mandarins and military officers during ceremonial occasions. North of the Palace of Supreme Harmony is the walled-in Purple Forbidden City, formerly the residence of the royal family. Tragically, the Forbidden City was destroyed during the Vietnam War. Most of the surviving buildings of interest are found on the southwestern side.

THIEN MU PAGODA
The last stop of the tour is Thien Mu Pagoda, a seven-storey pagoda that is built in the 16 century, overlooking the Perfume River. With the ground also house an active monastery. Interestingly, the monastery also house the car driven by the first monk who immolate himself publicly to protest against the South Vietnam government discrimination against Buddhists. It was reported that he drove the car from the monastery to Saigon in 1963, stopped at an intersection in the city centre, sat down in lotus position, and set himself on fire. Unbelievable..

The tour ended with a typical boat ride along the Perfume River. We were dropped off at the bank of the city centre and have to make our way back on our own in a light drizzle. Though not a far walk from most of our hotels, the tour should have ferried us back.

I retired early after a light dinner as was still pretty weak from the headache and fever in the morning. No Christmas dinner.

Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra's Christmas Concert

Day 6: 22 Dec 2005

The Opera House is a proud looking colonial building that is hard to miss. I am fortunate that the Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra is playing the Christmas Concert during my last evening in Hanoi. I bought a stall seat ticket which cost 15,000 D. Quite cheap for a symphony concert.

The concert was attended by mainly expatiates and tourist audiences. I also bumped into Tim and Catherine who one on the same boat with me in Halong Bay. We swapped stories of our adventures since we parted in Halong Bay, during intermission over wine.


The programme line up for the evening includes:
1. Giya Kanchelli's "Mourned by the Wind" liturgy for viola and large orchestra
2. J. S. Bach's Concerto for Violin and Oboe
3. Igor Stravinsky's Petroushka
These are hardly pieces one expected for a Christmas concert.

The conductor is a Japanese guest conductor Tomoyuki Hirota. Though the orchestra is made up of Vietnamese musicians. Or at least I didn't see anyone that looked foreign to me. I am not too sure if it is due to national pride or practical funding reasons. The violinist for Bach's Concerto is a graduate from Vietnam's conservatory. She seems relatively young as the principle violinist but she played superbly.

To my untrained ears, I think that the orchestra has played averagely. I felt that the play is more technical than emotional. The Bach's Concerto is well-played but rather stiff. However, I admired them for attempting the rarely played Giya Kanchelli's pieces. Judging from the restless crowd, it does seems that the piece is an acquired taste. Overall, it is an enjoyable evening. Hope that Vietnam continues to support its orchestra as it grows economically.